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Skin
Accelerates the renewal of ageing skin cells while stimulating the generation of new ones. It unclogs pores, reduces inflammation and improves the overall appearance of skin texture.
Whether it's treating acne or rejuvenating, retinol is one of the most well-known and tested skincare ingredients for years.
The history
The importance of retinol (vitamin A) was discovered during the First World War and subsequent research has shown that its deficiency leads to xerosis (dryness of the skin) and follicular hyperkeratosis (plugs that fill the holes in hair follicles).
The use of this substance as a therapy, however, dates back to about 3.000 years, in ancient Egypt, where liver was used to treat endemic night blindness.
The modern history of retinoids (derivatives) began in 1909, when an essential factor for the viability of an embryo was discovered in the fatty extract of egg yolk, called vitamin A.
The retinoid drug project was launched in 1968 to synthesize compounds similar to vitamin A.
Retinoids were finally introduced into the treatment of dermatoses, including photoaging, decades ago around the 1980s.
What is tretinoin?
Tretinoin is a topical retinoid (vitamin A derivative) generally used to treat acne and mature skin. It usually comes as a topical cream or gel to use on affected areas of the skin. Tretinoin is sometimes known as all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA), and there are several popular brands of tretinoin such as Vitanol-A, Vitacid, and others.
Retinol is naturally derived from vitamin A, while tretinoin is a synthetic form.
As a retinoid, tretinoin is used because it helps accelerate the growth of new (and healthy) skin cells, as well as repairing sun-damaged cells. Tretinoin is a synthetic form of vitamin A.
Benefits of tretinoin
Acne treatment
Tretinoin is commonly prescribed for the treatment of mild to moderate acne, including non-inflammatory forms (whiteheads and blackheads) and inflammatory forms (papules, pustules and cysts).
It helps prevent the formation of new acne lesions and promote the healing of existing ones. (2).
Hyperpigmentation
Tretinoin can be effective in treating hyperpigmentation problems such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Helps fade dark spots and even out skin tone (3).
Rough skin texture
Tretinoin can improve acne scars and overall skin texture by stimulating the elimination of dead skin cells and promoting the growth of newer, smoother skin cells (4).
Stretch marks
Clinical studies show that tretinoin can be used in some cases to improve the appearance of stretch marks, although its effectiveness tends to vary from person to person (5).
Wrinkles and anti-ageing
Tretinoin can also be used for wrinkles and anti-aging. Its regular use can lead to a reduction in fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of skin ageing by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity(6)
Stimulation of collagen production
Tretinoin also stimulates collagen production and helps preserve existing collagen by inhibiting collagenase, an enzyme that breaks down collagen fibers. This leads to smoother, younger-looking skin.
As collagen levels increase, the skin becomes more supple, wrinkles and fine lines are reduced and the overall texture of the skin improves (7).
Improved blood flow
Tretinoin's action on the skin can lead to increased blood flow in the treated areas. This improved circulation brings more oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells, aiding in their renewal and overall skin health (8)
Improved blood flow
Tretinoin's action on the skin can lead to increased blood flow in the treated areas. This improved circulation brings more oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells, helping with skin renewal and overall skin health(10).
However, in conditions such as acne, abnormal keratinization can lead to the formation of plugs in the hair follicles, contributing to the development of acne. Tretinoin helps to normalize this process and prevent pores from becoming blocked (11).
Reducing pigmentation
Several clinical studies show that tretinoin contributes to the disappearance of hyperpigmentation, sun spots and uneven skin tone (12, 13).
Reduction in pore size
Studies show that tretinoin can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores by increasing cell renewal. As dead skin cells are eliminated more efficiently, pores can appear smaller and less visible (14).
How to use tretinoin
First and foremost, you should always follow the recommendations for use that come with the product. The typical use of tretinoin is to apply the cream or gel before going to bed, applying just enough to lightly cover the impacted areas of skin.
Some people find that, as tretinoin contains strong active ingredients, it takes some time for the skin to get used to using the product - so it's essential to only use it as prescribed.
How tretinoin works
1. Accelerates the growth of new skin cells
Tretinoin has been found to be the most bioactive form of topically applied retinoids in the skin, helps to increase epidermal cell renewal. This means that the product helps accelerate the growth of new skin cells to renew the skin.
2. Reduces inflammation
Tretinoin is used specifically for the treatment of acne vulgaris - a type of acne that contains both inflammatory and anti-inflammatory lesions.
A review of tretinoin's anti-inflammatory properties found that it contains five important properties that can be considered anti-inflammatory properties. This can help reduce the inflammation that can be associated with acne vulgaris.
3. Prevents follicular obstruction
Follicular obstruction, sometimes known as skin, keratin or sebum obstruction, is when dead skin cells, sebum or keratin block a pore. This usually appears as a white or skin-toned bump and can later develop into pimples or blackheads.
Tretinoin reduces pore clogging as it increases cell regeneration and also helps to exfoliate the skin.
4. Exfoliates the skin
As well as reducing inflammation and increasing cell regeneration, tretinoin also has exfoliating properties. Although tretinoin itself is not an exfoliant, as the product accelerates the growth of new skin cells, it has exfoliating properties.
5. Repairing sun-damaged cells
Sun damage is being studied more and more, and people are becoming increasingly aware of the damage that the sun's rays can cause to their skin. Topical tretinoin has been found to partially reverses the structural damage caused by excessive exposure to sunlight.
In addition, research shows that the product can help slow down the process of photoaging - when the sun prematurely ages the skin.
6. Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
Vitamin A is commonly used in "anti-aging" treatments, and tretinoin has been found to reduce the prevalence of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.
One study found that after using topical tretinoin for 12 weeks, participants observed significant improvements in fine wrinkles around the eyes, as well as wrinkles around the mouth and cheeks.
7. Reduces the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation
It has been discovered that tretinoin is especially useful in the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation photo aging, helping to fade dark spots.
8. Improving skin texture and tone
Skin tone, texture and tactile roughness can also improve with the use of tretinoin. This is mainly because tretinoin has the ability to increase collagen production in the skin. One study found that treating photo-damaged skin with tretinoin produced an 80% increase in collagen formation.
Side effects of tretinoin
You'll find a full list of possible side effects on the product box. However, some of the common side effects that people may experience when using tretinoin are: redness, dryness, itching and flaking of the skin.
According to dermatologists, if you use it 2 or 3 days a week, you will notice the first results in about 10 weeks. Find out more about the effects it has on the skin after 2 weeks, 6 weeks, 3 months and 12 months of continuous use.
Risks
Women should stop using tretinoin one month before planning a pregnancy, during pregnancy and until they are breastfeeding. This is due to the teratogenic effects it can have on the developing fetus (21).
As tretinoin is photosensitive and causes sun sensitivity (22), it is important that it is applied at night and that you use sunscreen with SPF 50 during treatment to avoid sun damage.
After 12 months of treatment
After 12 months of consistent use of tretinoin, your skin will experience a number of improvements and transformations. (Study 2015)
Significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles
Prolonged use of tretinoin, usually 3 to 12 months, leads to a substantial reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The stimulation of collagen and elastin production and continuous skin renewal contribute to smoother, firmer skin. It also helps to increase skin thickness and reduce the appearance of age-related skin translucency and sagging (study,2006)
A more recent study (2019) found that wrinkles around the eyes and on the neck improved in subjects who used retinol for 8 weeks.
Disclaimer: This content, including advice, provides generic information only. Do not replace a medical opinion in any way.